Friday, 10 April 2009

Bird sounds from Central America

As promised, some of the bird sounds that I have heard both in my recent trip and also from when I was in Costa Rica:

My two favourites first!

Montezuma Oropendola


Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush (not found in Honduras)

Three-wattled bellbird (heard on Costa Rica, found only in the very southeast of Honduras on the border with Nicaragua)

And here are some of the Honduran birds that I saw:

Great-tailed Grackle

Melodious Blackbird

Black-headed Saltator

Common Bush Tanager

Great Kiskadee

Blue-crowned Motmot

Squirrel Cuckoo

Little Blue Heron

And just because I love monkeys, although I never heard them in Honduras:

Mantled howler monkeys

And HERE are the night sounds of the cloud forest in Costa Rica

Home Again

Well folks, this will be the last post for my Honduras Blog. Thank you all for reading it and sharing the adventure with me.

The journey home was certainly eventful. Honduras did beat Mexico in the world cup qualifier! The hotel owners' son was watching the game downstairs with some mates so I joined them, popping out briefly at half-time to grab something to eat. And yes I did eat somewhere different. Next to the Vamos a Ver Cafe there is a restaurant, whose name I have completely forgotten! Anyway I wasn't hugely hungry so I grabbed fried plantain with sour cream and beans. Very nice but very filling! Restaurant was nice, empty due to the match, but nice! Anyway, back to the game, a 2-1 score later and it's time for me to head to bed due to the horribly early start the next day. Of course I had conveniently forgotten how they like to celebrate in Latin America. I struggled to sleep whilst fire-crackers were being let off and taxis were zooming round the streets constantly honking their horns! This probably went on into the wee small hours, but I had luckily finally fallen asleep. Alarm went off at 4.15 am, yuck! Anyway, it was a fairly uneventful journey to San Pedro Sula, I was a bit nervous in case anything went wrong as I had been cutting a bit fine not going the night before, although in hindsight, due to the match I would have had a hard time finding a room. I grab a taxi for the 16km from the bus station to the airport ($15) and arrive only 15 minutes later than the ideal 3 hours before a flight.

Check-in, get rid of heavy bags (yay!), pay airport departure tax (about $35) and go through, relieved to have made it. Boarding time comes and goes and still no one is getting on the plane, then they bring snacks. It's not looking good. Suddenly I hear my surname called. Myself and 5 other people are pulled off the flight because we are not going to make our onward connections. Basically someone had driven the passenger bridge too hard into the side of the plane! (Perhaps due to too much celebrating the night before!) The plane isn't going anywhere soon. Initially there is nothing we can do, they want us to fly the next day. Luckily one of the other refugees is a lawyer who speaks fluent Spanish! Bless him, we spend 5 and a half hours standing at the check-in desk trying to fix things. That is how long it took to get us booked onto a new flight to the States (into New York that evening instead of Miami) and then a British Airways flight leaving early in the morning next day. We would arrive at Heathrow pretty much 12 hours later than planned. In the meantime we were sent to a hotel to have a shower and relax for an hour and a half before we had to be back at the airport. There was one business class seat on the flight to New York and I got lucky! What luxury! Wide seats, loads of leg room, staff waiting on me hand and foot! Was very strange, not being accustomed to such treatment!

In New York we had to wait a few hours before we could check in again, unfortunately no business class this time, but lots of empty seats on the plane so the chance to stretch out and sleep. Whilst we grabbed some breakfast we saw several dogs, in handbags! One Bichon Frise was even wearing a pink sweater! At last we were heading home, there was a great choice of movies, but unfortunately, unlike Virgin, BA had edited a lot of the films for content so I chose not to watch James Bond, Benjamin Button, The Reader or Revolutionary Road because I'd rather see them in their entirety! Instead it was Changeling (very good) and 80% of Bolt! (will be very good when I finish seeing it!).

Heathrow at last, mum waiting, yay! Unfortunately the M25 was a nightmare, cars at a crawl even at 10pm. It took 6 hours to get home! I worked out I had been travelling for 42 hours from getting up in Copan, Honduras to getting into bed in Holt, Norfolk.

The end of an amazing trip, it had it's share of ups and downs, I met some jerks, but also some really wonderful people. A huge hug and thanks go out to Jeff, Terrie and the girls at the Cafe Mariposa for making my stay so memorable, and to Dr Rob Davis and Bryan Becker from the Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Centre for making my dreams come true, and finally to Cesar Flores, my guide at Copan, for giving me a fantastic tour of the ruins and explaining so much about the amazing Mayan civilisation.

Thank you, goodnight and good luck :)

Thursday, 2 April 2009

And Now...The End is Near....

Here I am, on my very last night. I'm feeling really rather sad. Now my skin is all healed up I want to carry on travelling, exploring and adventuring. But only if I can dump my dive gear and replace the two pairs of travel trousers that have finally died during this trip! The tropics sure are tough on your clothes!

Yesterday I decided to go back to the ruins. It is such an amazing place and I wanted to walk round more slowly and see things I had missed the day before. It was a lovely peaceful day. I had planned on walking up to the La Sepulturas ruins that are a further 1km away but ended up enjoying the nature trail again. Bird list is now well over 25 just since leaving Utila! I was a complete coward in the evening, looked at a couple of restaurants but the Forest Llama was cheaper so I went back...again! I am definitely going somewhere new tonight, I promise! Nice breakfast yesterday at Vamos A Ver cafe. Prices look a bit high for evening meals but had a decent breakfast for $4 (they make their own bread, it was delicious), the same price as at La Casa de Todo where I had the granola, fruit and yogurt on my first day.

Today I had planned to try and cram in the Butterfly park, the Macaw Mountain bird park, the walk to the bus terminal to buy my ticket for the morning AND getting online to check-in in advance (unfortunately the online check-in didn't work because I have a connecting flight). In the end, after walking to the bus terminal this morning I decided to ditch the butterfly park. Maybe if I am really lucky I'll come back in the not too distant future. I would love to spend at least a couple of months travelling down from Mexico to Panama. Anyway, so after getting my ticket sorted for 5.15am tomorrow (yuck!) I headed back to the central park to grab a motorcycle taxi. When I first heard about these I assumed it was sitting on the back of a bike! Nope! They are tuktuks! So funny to see them outside of Thailand, but what a great idea. I believe there is even one in sunny Sheringham on the North Norfolk coast now. They are spreading! So for a mere $1 (20 lempiras) I get the 10 minute ride up the hill to the bird park which is situated along a ravine. It was beautifully planted with lots of luscious vegetation and tall trees dripping in epiphytes. All the birds there are rescue birds, mostly former pets, birds that have been sick, mistreated, or found having fallen from the nest. None of the birds were caught in the wild and they release any that they can. I liked the place. It is always nicer to see birds flying free rather than in aviaries but still the aviaries were lovely and they all looked healthy and happy. Well maybe not so happy after I sat next to one of the macaw aviaries singing in spanish! Meanwhile in the aviary next door some little parakeets kept calling Hola! and whistling their appreciation for my singing! Well, that is what I am going to tell myself anyway. So, the birds there are mostly native macaws, parrots and parakeets. They also had toucans, aracaris and toucanets (both related to toucans), a couple of owls and a couple of hawks. They put out food for the wild birds too and there were trees filled with oropendolas. A different species from the one with my favourite bird call. I added considerably to my list whilst I was wandering about the beautiful walkways, nature trail and sitting on the bridge cafe. After lunch at the cafe I took a wonderfully refreshing dip in the natural pool they have created in the river. Bliss! I had it all to myself, well there was a dog sharing the steps to start with. A german shepherd, poor thing, can you imagine the heat carrying a coat like that! Then when he left it was just me, and the birds flying overhead, including large flocks of parakeets chattering to each other, and more oropendolas zooming up and down the valley. Another wander round, including a sighting of a wild pygmy owl with a dead lizard in it's claws (the same species of owl that they have in one of the aviaries!) and then I walked the 2.5 km dusty road back to town (downhill! thank goodness!).

Tonight there is a big football match on. Honduras v. Mexico in a world cup round. I'm hoping to find a place to watch it after I've showered and packed, I think they might be setting up a screen in the central park. Watching football in Latin America is always a great experience. They turn it into a big party, even if they lose! I hope they win though, would be a nice touch to the end of my journey.

Well folks. Thank you for reading my ramblings. I hope to post some more photos when I get home, including the pictures from the ruins and from today. I had better get going, I'm hungry and the match starts in an hour and a half! Vamos Honduras!

Adios y suena con los angeles.....goodbye and sleep with the angels (the equivalent of Sweet Dreams!)

Tuesday, 31 March 2009

Copan Ruinas - The Copan Ruins

Well, here I am safely in Copan after one hell of a journey. I was up at 5am yesterday to catch the ferry at 6.20, which arrived in La Ceiba at 7.30, followed by a crazy taxi ride with a driver (who had a serious death wish!) to the bus station. Just in time to catch the 8.30 bus to San Pedro Sula. I managed to stay awake this time, well most of the time. The mountains all along the north coast are simply stunning and densly forested. Then as you move inland and the mountains slink into the distance the land either side of the road is replaced with huge fruit tree and coconut palm plantations. Eventually the roads become dustier although everything is still pretty green. Finally at midday we arrived in San Pedro Sula. There was initially only a one hour wait but this stretched to two, one of which was spent slowly melting in the bus! Eventually, we are off, heading to the very western part of the country, not far from the border with Guatemala. The roads are dusty and the vegetation is getting drier, the dry season is in getting into full swing here. We pass through a river valley and wind around hills for three hours until finally arriving at the town of Copan Ruinas at about 5 pm. Only half an hour earlier than if I had taken the fancy air-conditioned buses! Lesson learnt. Trying to save time doesn't always work out! Still, it was half the price!

I headed straight to the first hotel I had read about, Lauro's Hotel. Trying to drag a bag of dive gear up a steep cobbled street is an adventure in itself! Remind me to leave it behind next time. At last, hot, sweaty and tired I collapse on a wonderfully comfortable bed in a clean, pleasant room. After a refreshingly cool shower (hot is available but seriously not needed at the moment!) I head out to eat and try the recommended Llama Del Bosque. Which should mean, if my spanish is correct, the Forest Llama! Anyway, name aside it certainly lived up to its' reputation. Desperate for some pasta I chose spag bol and it was fantastic! I know I should be adventurous and choose somewhere different tonight but they have Arroz con camarones (rice and shrimp) and I used to love this in Costa Rica so I think I will be heading back! I sat on a beautiful outdoor covered patio and read up about the Mayan Ruins whilst downing a banana milkshake.

This morning I was up early searching for breakfast before heading to the ruins. I ended up at La Casa de Todo (the house of everything!) a well-named place where you can do laundry, use the internet, and there is a cafe, shop and book exchange. I'm bound to have missed something out! So, yogurt topped with granola, honey and fruit with an iced tea set me up for the day. I set off for the ruins, 1km from the town, a nice 15 minute walk which passed several statues (called stelae) on the way. My first ever sighting of Mayan sculptures. I was so excited for what was about to come. Turning into the ruins I was welcomed by friendly guides who pointed me in the direction of the ticket office where I bought a ticket to the ruins and the museum of sculture. There are also tunnels that cost a lot more and I gave those a miss. I had planned to wander round myself. I had a little guidebook and a basic map, but after entering the main area and seeing all these incredible stelae and stepped structures I realised I would only get the most out of it if there was someone to tell me what it all meant! On the way back to the guide office to grab a guide it was whip the binoculars out time when a Montezuma's oropendula flew passed. It has the most amazing call, there is a site of bird calls from Costa Rica, when I get back home I will post a link to the call. It's seriously impressive I promise! Yes, yes I realise I am turning into a birding geek. But it is the easiest wildlife to see when travelling, relatively speaking.

Back to the ruins, my guide was wonderful. But I am turning into my grandfather and I am embarassed to say I can't remember his name! I know it began with a 'C' and no it wasn't Carlos! Anyway he was brilliant, he took me all around the sight, explained about Mayan history and the importance of Copan. I took a zillion photos, unfortunately my camera has had one of its glitches again and although the pictures look amazing on the camera when I transfered them to my usb stick it is if someone suddenly turned off the flash. I'm so annoyed. I am hoping I can repair them at home. I could go back again tomorrow and take them all again but who is to say the camera won't do exactly the same thing again. So all the cool pictures I was hoping to upload tonight will have to wait I'm afraid. If you are interested at all you could stick Copan ruins in google, I'm sure some good images would come up.

The tour took a good couple of hours, and the ruins really did blow me away. Imagining that incredibly advnaced civilisation walking, living and dying in and under those very same stones that I was looking at or standing on was quite overwhelming. Interestingly enough, they believe that it was over-population (due to the huge success of the Mayans) and consequently the over-use of resources and deforestation etc. which caused droughts and climate change amongst other things that eventually resulted in their downfall. For those of you that don't know, pretty much everything that the Mayans ever predicted has come true. They also predict that the end of the current life cycle on this planet will end on 23rd December 2012. I think that is the right date! I will check when I get back to my room. I didn't read it to mean the end of the earth, more like the death of one life cycle followed by a rebirth.

It's is a little frightening that the downfall of such an advanced culture was caused by more or less exactly the same issues that we are facing now. Maybe we should learn from their lessons before it is too late!

Ok enough preaching for now! I spent the rest of the afternoon on the nature trail, spotting wonderful birds and trying to identify trees and remember their names. When I was in Costa Rica studying the monkeys I used to be able to identify 25-30 tree species in this tropical dry forest (incidentally it is the most endangered forest type in the world, only 5% left). I know I have rabbited on long enough and you are all asleep now so I'm going to let you doze and go grab my rice and shrimp.

Tomorrow the plan is to go to the Macaw Mountain Bird Reserve. Yes, more birds! A rough idea for Wednesday is a visit to the Mariposaria (butterfly park) in the morning and possibly a trip to the hot springs in the afternoon. Not that you need hot springs here it is soooo hot now. Thursday is another very early start, 4.30 or earlier to catch a bus at 5.15am back to San Pedro Sula, then a taxi to the airport, a flight to Miami and another flight to London. I'm telling you all this now in case I don't get online again!

Take care all, and if I don't speak to you before I'll catch up as soon as I'm back home!

Adios amigos!

p.s. edit: His name was Cesar!

Wednesday, 25 March 2009

The final week :(

Wow, how quickly does time fly? I can´t believe I am writing this with just 3 days left here on the island before I head off to visit the Mayan ruins at Copan.

I´m still recovering mentally from my amazing whale shark encounter last week. For days after I kept waking up at night and had to look at the images on the camera to remind myself it was real. On Friday Terrie and I spent the afternoon cleaning and organising the laboratory at the Whale Shark Research Centre. Terrie is going to carry on after I leave, cataloguing (spelling?!) and helping them stock up with what they need. Friday night I played cards with Jeff and Terrie, then Terrie and I hit the clubs! In other words we went to the infamous Bar In The Bush! It was a good laugh and we danced like mad for a couple of hours. I decided to call it a night at about 1.30am (sign of old age!) as my knees were starting to hurt and a man with a beer belly had just tried to rub his groin against me! Bless him this act was made somewhat more difficult by the size of his stomach. I´m sure he was a very sweet guy but I really wasn´t in the mood for a grope and figured it was high time I made a hasty exit!

The weekend was pretty dull, it rained most of the time so I was confined to quarters again. Not least recovering from the dancing of the night before! Although Sunday night on the way home from getting some dinner I did see a tarantula not far from the house! Luckily I like them! Monday was lovely though which allowed me a day on the beach. Yesterday I went diving with Bay Islands College of Diving. It was wonderful. Two lovely dive sites, although there were a lot more fish at the second one, and a hawksbill turtle who swam alongside us for a while, happily pausing to feed so clearly not bothered by our presence! I have uploaded some of the better photos I took.

This afternoon I am going on my last whale shark trip, followed by a night dive. Then day time diving again tomorrow, and laundry in the afternoon! Friday I am hoping to hike to Pumpkin Hill, there highest point on the island. There are bat caves there and a small beach on the far side. Saturday will be for packing and hopefully some final beach time before a very early departure on Sunday. Copan is supposed to be a lovely town and I am looking forward to seeing the ruins. There should be internet access there so I will hopefully be able to upload some pics for you.

That´s all the news for now folks. I will try and get online before I leave Utila.

Love and hugs to all :)

P.s. I wanted to add here as I didn't make a post about it that we did see whale sharks again on my last trip, but nowhere near as good as the week before. My last day diving was ruined by a jerk of an instructor called Clayton, who decided it would be good sport to make fun of me in front of 4 other people for being safety-concious and carrying a surface marker buoy (in Egypt I believe it is a requirement for at least one person in every dive group to carry one since several people got swept away from their dive boat by freak currents and weren't found for 3 days) which is quite ironic coming from an instructor who should be carrying one himself! Then after our first dive he loudly snapped at me for setting up my equipment in the wrong place! I admit I was tired and not thinking straight but still, hardly good customer service! Oh well, says a lot more about him than it does me. Luckily I wasn't actually diving in his group, I was with a very nice Australian instructor called Rob along with a couple of his advanced open water students who were very nice. So just to slightly amend my view of Bay Islands College of Diving, the majority of them were really great, really welcoming and good fun to dive with! I didn't make it to Pumpkin Hill either as I was sick on the Friday :( but I did spend my last day chilling out on the beach, things got a bit tearful in the evening when I had my last meal at Cafe Mariposa and they insisted it was on the house! Such seriously nice people. I'll miss them :)