Monday 23 February 2009

Bienvenidos a mi casa! Welcome to my house!

Well folks, it's me again. Goodness I don't really know where to start. What a strange little island. The town is very busy, lots of travellers and backpackers mostly here for diving. So many dive shops you wonder how the hell they get enough customers to survive. Lots of rubbish which is such a shame, although they keep the main street pretty clean. There are issues with what to do with rubbish and their new recycling plant is ready but not open. It's a problem that is seen all over Central America. People just throw their rubbish anywhere they can and it's like they can't see it. It is much their cultural upbringing as their education I think. It was even bad in Costa Rica which has such a wonderful reputation for conservation and eco-lodges. Much of the island has been bought up by Americans who divide the land into plots and build on them. It won't be that long before it is all houses, either for ex-pats or for holiday homes, aside from the mangrove and savannah on the west end of the island which can't be built on. It must have been wonderful about 10 years ago.

The Utilians that I have met have all been friendly and helpful and I love their creole accent, remind me of Jamaica but is mostly easier to understand. There are lots of people here from the mainland now (come to supply the tourist industry probably) so quite a lot more spanish is spoken than there used to be.

I've been feeling very anti-american ever since I saw all the realty offices and their pictures of the island all divided up into plots. But they are not all bad. Terrie and Jeff who own the lovely Cafe Mariposa (fabulous fresca drinks with big glasses of safe-to-drink ice and lime and the wonderful nachos that can be seen in the photos!) work hard to use only glass bottles which can be recycled and to reduce and reuse as much as possible.

Anyway, I'll get back to my rant soon. So back to my actual travels. Cynthia the Australian and I headed to Coopers Inn for our first night. Basic rooms and shared bathroom for $10 a night. The people who run it are very nice but the shower was a nightmare, in fact calling it a shower is an insult to showers! More like a dripping tap! The following day, Saturday, Cynthia helped me trek around town looking for apartments. Starting to panic as finding everything a lot more expensive than planned or already full. Lots of places were also closed. There is a religion here that has Saturday as the Sabbath. Is it the Seventh Day Adventists? anyone know? I've seen one of their schools here. Anyway, one of the most promising places, Countryside, was closed so I had to leave it till the following day. In the afternoon we headed to the Bandu beach which you pay $3 to use. Not a bad place, the entry fee keeps the numbers of people down and the place was pretty clean. Was lovely to get in the water. Saw plenty of fish, including a huge barracuda who kept eyeballing me. But the snorkelling wasn't that great. By the time we realised we needed to walk way out over some rocks to reach the actual reef it was a bit late to try. But that is where the palm trees in the photos are.

Yesterday morning I went back to Countryside and picked up a lovely little apartment for $314 for 5 weeks. I have a private bathroom with a decent cold shower, a tv with cable (watched the Oscars last night! ok ok I slept through most of it!), and a little kitchenette. I'm really pleased with it and sooooo glad to be able to unpack finally and not have to lug my bags about anymore.

Is the island what I expected? No, not any more. Too much development, too much tourism and not enough concern for the environment. There is a Conservation organisation here who are fighting hard to improve things. I heard that they could maybe use a hand so now I am planning to get in touch and see if I can be of any use a day or two a week.

I'd better stop there as the post will be way too long and you will have all fallen asleep before you reach the end. Sorry about that. I've never managed to keep travel journals before and I'm kind of using this blog as my journal. Do feel free to switch off if you get bored!

Hasta pronto amigos y familia, talk to you soon friends and family. Big hugs to all.

Sunday 22 February 2009

What a journey!

Hello peeps, well I made it one piece. But only just! The flight from Heathrow was fun, good films, saw The Duchess and Vicky Cristina Barcelona oh yes and Madagascar 2!! Didn't think to sleep. Might have been a mistake. Huge crosswinds coming into JFK airport in New York made for one hell of a bumpy landing. Followed by 6 hours aimlessly humping heavy backbacks around the airport. Soon realised that it was really 6 in the morning UK time which might have been why I was fading fast!

Slept all the way from JFK to San Pedro Sula, much needed I can tell you, arriving bleary eyed at 7am to torrential rain! Realised then that raincoat was buried deep in the rucksack. Oops! Had to wait for a few hours for bus terminal to open so enjoyed watching the rain until it cleared and the first rays of sun appeared. Everything was fresh and green and brightly coloured with tropical plants. Got chatted up by a policeman, who very kindly helped me with my bags to the bus.

Nice bus, more luxury coach actually. Couple of stops and four hours later I arrived in La Ceiba on the North coast. Unfortunately I slept most of the way but whenever I did open my eyes there were stunning forest-covered mountains. Got a taxi to the ferry port, another wait...forgot that waiting is a huge part of travelling! The wait was worth it though as there were some great birds to look at, no not the two legged kind, I'm not that way enclined! Saw frigate birds, terns and a stunning osprey. Then a tiny ferry appears, not what I was expecting at all. Met some nice people whilst waiting, and ended up sitting outside on the front of the ferry with them. This proved to be a very wet experience as you will see from the slide show! But what a ride, got called a crazy pom by my new Australian friend for clinging onto the front whooping with delight with every huge spray of water that hit us. Two of my new friends are the owners of a very pretty cafe and offered all who get soaked a free drink!

So it's been a pretty good start so far. Have spent 24 hours here now, but will tell you about the island in my next installment.

Adios amigos!